Coat.



A. B. REISMAN.

' OOAT. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. l3 1911. 1,090,409. Patented Mar. 17, 1914.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

19 Lg W Ei q l. l 18 21 WITNESSES: INVENTOR 94W 0 By 7 I P L ML M M A7 "@ATTORZEYS OLUMBIA PLANDGRAFH CO WASHINGTON. D. C;

A. B. REISMAN.

COAT.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT.13L1911.

1,090,409. Patented Mar.17,1914.

2 SHEETS-*SHEET 2.

WITNESSES: INVE/VTUR 615m 4 i 1- COLUMBIA FLANOGRAPH co., WASHINGTON, D. c.

WITE$ STATES PATENT @FFIQE.

ADOLPI-I B. REISMEAVN, on NEW YORK, n. Y.

COAT.

, of which the following is a full, clear, and

exact description.

This invention relates to coats, and its chief object is to provide an improved mode of fashioning and attaching the collar, en-

abling the tailor to give a better fit and appearance to the collar and shoulders of the coat with the expenditure of less time and care.

In the tailoring art as heretofore practised the fitting of the collar is, as is well known, the most difiicult part of making a coat, often requiring the utmost care as well as frequent trying on, thus causing inconvenience to the customer and increasing the cost to the tailor. This is due chiefly to the fact that the collar, unless cut and fitted with the greatest skill, almost inevitably spoils the set of the shoulders around the neck, particularly where the coat is intended to have the so-called concave shoulder. By my invention, however, as has been amply demonstrated by actual use, the fitting of the collar to the coat without affecting the shoulders can be done successfully by a workman of only moderate skill and in less time than by the old method.

The precise method of the invention will be readily understood by reference to the accompanying drawings, in whicht Figure 1 shows the two front and two back ieces of a coat out according to my invention and laid out side by side. Fig. 2 shows the shape of the outer collar as cut from the goods. Fig. 3 shows the shape of the outer collar after it is trained by shrinking and stretching. Fig. 4: shows the shape of the under collar as cut and as used. Fig. 5 is a vertical section down the back of my improved coat, (with the lapel folded down as worn), looking toward the inside of the garment. Fig. 6 is a similar section, but with the collar and lapel raised. Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 1 but illustrating a modification, in which the under collar is in-' tegral with the front and back pieces of the coat. Fig. 8 is a sectional view like that of Fig. 5, illustrating the coat as made accord ing to the modification shown in Fig. 7 Fig. '9 is an outer View, from the back, of an Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed September 13, 1911.

Patented Mar. 17, 1914:. Serial No. 649,128.

overcoat constructed according to my invention and having a convertible collar, that s, one which when turned up is of the military type. Fig. 10 is a front view of the overcoat, with the collar turned up or raised to display the military under-collar.

My improved coat is composed of the customary number of pieces, two front and two back, as shown at 10, 11, 12, and 13; itbe- 111g understood ofcourse, that the back may be composed of a single piece as is usual when a seamless back is desired. In the ordinary practice the coat pieces at the neck are cutdown approximately to a level with the lower edge of the collar when the latter is folded down in the position in which it is worn. In Fig. 1 the upper edge of the coat pieces as out according to usual methods is indicated by the dotted lines 14:. The outer collar, and the under-collar (or collar lining) are in this case the same in width, and the under collar is sewed to the coat pieces along the top edges of the same, that is, along the dotted lines 14. Now when the garment is finished and the collar folded out and down the lower edge of the collar comes just below the seam by which the undercollar or lining is secured to the back of the coat. The consequence is that if the collar rides up for any reason this scam is exposed thus giving an unsightly appearance to the garment; and moreover, this is likely to occur, particularly if the garment is given hard wear, since the only thing to prevent riding up is the pressed fold of the collar. According to my method, however, the coat pieces are not cut down to the dotted lines 14:, but extend unbroken up to the point at which the collar folds, as indicated by the full lines 15 in Fig. 1, or beyond said lines 15 when the under collar is to be integral with the coat pieces, as will be explained hereinafter. This makes it very easy to produce concave shoulders, simply by giving the edges the proper curves, as indicated for example at the points 16. On the other hand, it will be seen that if the coat pieces are cut in the ordinary manner, that is, down to the dotted lines 14, a considerable part of the concave must be produced by the under-collar or collar lining. be readily understood, greatly increases the difliculty of giving the shoulders a smooth and regular concave shape.

According to my system, the outer collar, when ready to be sewed in place, is sub- This, as will stantially of the shape shown in Fig. 3, in which it is designated by the numeral 17.

In Fig. 1 a portion of the collar, attached same length as the outer collar, but is slightly narrower. The two collar pieces are fastened together along their straight edges 19 in any suitable manner, as for example by placing the right sides together and sewing through the two so that when opened and folded back the appearance shown at 20 in Figs. 5 and 6 will result. The free edge 21 of the under-collar is now sewed to the neck-edge of the coat, bringing the 20 right sides together, with the under-collar, its upper edge included, outside of the pieces 10, 11, 12, 13, that is, outside with respect to the wearer of the coat though of course between said pieces and the outer- 5 collar 17 when the garment is worn, thus forming the seam shown at 22 in Figs. 5 and 6. It will be observed that this seam leaves a deep and permanent crease along which the collar folds, as indicated in Fig.

3 5, so that not only does the collar fold naturally at the proper point but most effectually resists any tendency to ride up when the garment is worn. If desired the under collar and the upper edge of the coat may be stiffened by strips of canvas or other suitable material sewed in place, as indicated in Fig. 6 in which the stiffening strips are shown at 23. These strips not only serve to give smoothness to the set of the garment around the neck but also aid in resisting any tendency of the collar to ride up on the neck when worn. However, as will be observed, there is no unsightly seam to be exposed by such an occurrence, as is the case with the collar fashioned in the ordinary manner, in which the under-collar is secured to the coat along a line just above the lower edge of the outer collar when the latter is turned down for use.

.The end portions of the edge 24 of the outer collar 17 are sewed to the side pieces 10, 13, and facings 10 as indicated in Figs. 1, 5 and 6. The middle portion of the edge 24 is secured to the back of the coat in the usual way, and to the back lining 25. From the seam 22 the line of fold of the collar is carried down the lapels, meeting the edges of the side pieces as shown in Fig. 6, in which the line of fold is indicated by the broken line 26.

When the material of which the coat is to be made has a pronounced figure, as forin the same direction where the outer collar joins the lapel portions, that is, at the points 27 This is impossible in the ordinary practice, but may easily be accomplished when my invention is used. For m this purpose the outer collar is not cut to. the form shown in Fig. 3, but to that shown in Fig. 2, with the outer edge 19 running to a point at the center and with a deep notch or in-cut at the center of the inneredge 2 1, with the stripe running parallel to a line joining the centers of the two edges. The piece is then trained to the shape shown in Fig. 3 by stretching the incut portion of edge 2 1 and shrinking the edge 19*, thus giving a slight curve to the outer or end portions of edge 2 1 The result is that when the collar is sewed to the facing the stripes V will not only match but will also run in the same direction, as clearly shown by the par- 5 allel lines in Fig. 6. At the same time the lessening of the spaces between the stripes, produced by shrinking the edge19, and the increase of such spaces by stretching the central portion of edge 2 1 is too slight to be noticeable.v This has been demonstrated by actual use.

As previously stated, the under-collar may be integral with the coat pieces. This method is illustrated in Fig. 7, in which the lines, along which the pieces would be cut when a separate under collar is tobe used, are shown dotted at 27. For this type of collar the outer collar is fashioned in one or other of the ways already described, (that is, cut originally to the form shownin Fig. 3 or cut to the form shown in Fig. 2 and trained to shape), and is secured to the coat pieces as already explained. To produce the sharp fold-defining crease in the collar, shown at 22 in Fig. 6, theintegral under-collar is folded sharply as in Fig. 8 and a seam run along the fold just below 7 the edge, as indicated at 28 in the figure just mentioned. This method, it will be seen, gives the same effect as that produced with the separate under-collar of Figs. 5 and 6. If the garment is an overcoat the collar may be of the convertible or duplex type. In this case the under-collar, designated by 30 in Figs. 9 and 10, is formed with tabs 31, 32, at its ends, which tabs are not sewed to the front-pieces 33, 34, but are left free. Now when the collar isfolded down along the seam-crease 22 and the broken lines 35, 120 36, the military-style under-c0llar 30 is effectually concealed from View; but on turning up the collar the military under-collar is exposed, and the lapel of front-piece 33' (which overlaps the edge of piece 32 when the coat is buttoned) is brought under the tab 32, as clearly shown in Fig. 10. To hold the lapel in place, preventing it from springing out from under the tab, I prefer to employ a snap fastener of the lug and socket type, securing one member 37 of the fastener to the under side of the tab and the other member 38 to the lapel; it being understood that the member 38 is secured to the side of the lapel which is concealed when the collar is turned down in ordinary style. The fastening devices therefore need never be exposed to view. This mode of fastening is superior to a tab buttoned across the abutting ends of the military collar as the latter method permits the lapel to sag out of place.

The foregoing description sets forth what I consider the best method of applying my invention in practice, but it is to be understood that the details may be varied without departure from the scope and spirit of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A coat having a collar, comprising front and back pieces cut to fit the neck of the wearer and extending unbroken up to the line at which the collar folds down; a separate undercollar fitted to the top of said pieces and having its upper edge outside of said pieces; a seam 22 securing the upper edge of the under-collar to the upper edges of said front and back pieces and providing a sharp crease when the collar is turned up along which crease the collar must fold when turned down; and an outercollar extending upwardly from the bottom edge of the under-collar, then downwardly over the upper edges of the under collar and said front and back pieces, the outer edge of the outer-collar being sewed to the bottom edge of the under-collar and the inner edge of the outer-collar being sewed to the body of the garment inside the same.

2. A coat comprising front and back pieces cut at the top to fit the neck of the wearer, a military under-collar adjoining the said pieces at the top, a seam-crease defining the line of fold of the collar across the back of the neck portion of the garment at the point where said under-collar joins said neck portion, said under-collar being provided with free end portions extending beyond said seam-crease, and an outer collar secured to the under-collar along the lower edge thereof and extending upwardly t0 the seam-crease then over and downwardly and secured to the neck portion of the garment on the inside, substantially as and for the purposes described.

3. A coat comprising front and back pieces cut at the top to fit the neck of the wearer, a military under-collar adjoining the said pieces at the top, a seam-crease defining the line of fold of the collar across the back of the neck portion of the garment at the point where said under-collar joins said neck portion, said under collar being provided with free end portions forming tabs extending beyond the said seam-crease and concealed under the lapels of the front pieces of the garment when the collar is folded down, an outer-collar sewed to the under-collar along the lower edge of the latter and extending upwardly to the seamcrease then over and downwardly and secured to the garment on the inside, and detachable means for fastening one of the tabs to the lapel of the opposite front piece of the garment when the collar is turned up to expose the military under-collar, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

AD OLPH B. REISMAN.

Witnesses:

M. LAWSON DYER, S. S. DUNHAM.

Copies of this patent may he obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G. 

